True provincial cooking is an exercise in economy and what's on hand. When I was a starving student and newly married with irregular habits, dinner was largely a function of what was nearly rotten in the refrigerator, which resulted in some unusual combinations. I learned a lot then, and was fortunate to be married to an undiscriminating eating machine. It was sort of like provincial cooking, as close as one could come in Southern California in the 1980's.
This recipe is a good example of my favorite way to cook: all amounts are approximate, the flavor can vary according to what's good, fresh and available, and the method is instinctive. I'm still dreaming of Tuscany, like last week. After reading the recipes in "Under the Tuscan Sun" and several Italian regional cookbooks, I felt I had a feeling for the ingredients and techniques of central Italy. Slow food, but simple. Mellow, but fresh. So I bought some roasted peppers (though you could make your own if you're ambitious), rummaged around for the rest, and made the following for an antipasto relish, similar to caponata or tapenade, but with the voluptuous taste of roasted garlic and a beautiful red color. Spread it on crostini, over polenta, toss with pasta -- it blends beautifully with any starch, and is plenty good on the side of any roasted meat. Adjust the flavor or seasoning to your liking, although it won't need additional salt, with the olives and capers supplying plenty. Top with grated Parmesan-Reggiano, if you like.
- 1 full head garlic
- good quality olive oil (about 1/2 cup in all)
- 8-10 cherry tomatoes
- 1/2 large brown or yellow onion
- 2 T capers
- 6 oz (about 3/4 cup) roasted peeled red peppers (in jar is fine)
- about 15 pitted caponata olives
- 1 tablespoon fresh oregano
- 4-5 large basil leaves, chopped
Slice the top off the head of garlic, exposing the tops of the cloves. Drizzle with a tablespoon or so of olive oil, wrap in foil and bake at 400 degrees for about an hour, until cloves are very soft. Put cherry tomatoes in small baking dish, drizzle with some olive oil, and roast with the garlic until tomatoes are soft, puckered and slightly browned here and there. In the meantime, slice onion into thin rings and very very slowly cook in 3-4 tablespoons of olive oil, covered, stirring from time to time, for about 40 minutes until resembles marmalade -- do not allow onions to brown. When tomatoes and garlic are done, allow to cool, then squeeze garlic into food processor bowl. Pulse with tomatoes, any cooking juices from the garlic and tomatoes and about half the peppers in food processor until smooth. Add cooked onion and its juices, along with remainder of peppers and other ingredients, and process in short bursts until finely chopped, but with recognizable texture remaining. Mix in more olive oil as desired. Refrigerate overnight (it just gets better and better for up to a week) to allow flavors to mellow and blend.











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